Secret Tuscia. A guide to the land of peperino, from the first morning coffee to late-night cocktails

There is a stern beauty to the Tuscia region near Viterbo, defined by woodlands and canyons carved out of tufa, with the dark tone of peperino stone shaping its historic villages. From the 13th-century alleyways of the San Pellegrino quarter in Viterbo to Civita di Bagnoregio—the "Dying City"—and the late-Renaissance grandeur of Palazzo Farnese in Caprarola, this corner of Etruscan land guards a culinary soul that is frank, wild, and deeply visceral. It is a food landscape that smells of woods and lakes, serving as an ideal watershed between the Lazial Maremma, the Tiber Valley, and the hazelnut-covered plains of the Cimini Mountains.

The local heritage of flavors holds culinary pillars tied directly to the land and its pastures. The Nocciola Gentile Romana DOP dominates the gentle curves of the hills, meeting rare legumes like the Purgatorio bean from Gradoli or the lentils of Onano. Plates feature the bitter bite of wild asparagus and Tarquinia artichokes, the savory depth of pecorino aged in tufa caves, and the legendary Susianella—an Etruscan cured meat that elevates pig offal into a monument of zero-waste gastronomy.

The journey begins at Parco delle Querce, where Cristiano Germani and Simona Foderini converted their family farm into an oasis of rural hospitality just minutes from Viterbo. Surrounded by greenery, the rooms offer warm, family-style hospitality meticulous in every detail. The most magical moment arrives in the morning, when Simona presents an extraordinary breakfast: a spread of fresh baked goods, crumbly crostate, traditional ciambelle, and croissants, served alongside preserves from the farm's own raspberry patch and an irresistible homemade Tuscia hazelnut spread.

For those seeking a sweet stop along the shores of Lake Bolsena, Pasticceria Marité has established itself as one of the region's most compelling bakeries. Born from the talent and vision of a young couple, it serves masterfully crafted maritozzi filled to order with fresh whipped cream, alongside precisely laminated viennoiserie.

Heading back into historic Viterbo, the morning stop for specialty coffee enthusiasts features Caffè Pe-fè in Via Amerina. In a space run with passion and precision, specialty coffee culture dispels the usual quick-espresso clichés. Selected single-origins, filter extractions, and careful coffee sourcing pair with traditional sweets crafted from local ingredients.

The midday table: freshwater views on the shore and rural authenticity

For lunch, head to the shore at Pepenero in Capodimonte. After an international finance career among Tokyo's skyscrapers, Daniele Ciuchini returned home to take over this restaurant set directly over the waters of Bolsena. The view overlooks the green silhouette of Bisentina Island and its Farnese-era churches peeking through the foliage. In the kitchen, chef Salvo Cravero crafts a refined menu blending freshwater fish with inland produce: butter-and-sage tortelli with smoked whitefish and lemon, citrus-marinated pike tartare with fennel mayonnaise, yakitori-style shad fillet with green herb sauce and Amatrice gentian, and grilled mutton with gremolata and celeriac purée. It is a precise yet delicate culinary line, served in the dining room with effortless charm by young maître Bruno Manfredino.

Those who prefer returning to the pastures and rural roots will find it at Parco delle Querce's table. Here, the farm acts as a true pantry. Cristiano Germani elevates local ingredients over the fire with deeply rooted dishes: homemade fettuccine with poultry ragù, fagottini stuffed with sheep's milk ricotta and wild greens, roasted suckling pig scented with myrtle and wild fennel, trippa, and the authentic bujone d'agnello (lamb stew). Everything is accompanied by artisan breads and ancient-grain Roman-style pizzas baked by Simona.

Afternoon gourmand shopping at an authentic butchery, and a detour for extra virgin olive oil

In the afternoon, before shadows lengthen over the province, an essential food shopping stop is Azienda Agricola Stefanoni, a family farming history dating back to the 19th century. Here, pigs are raised in a closed-loop system and fed crops grown on the estate. Joining the crowd at their counter means stocking up on genuine delicacies: from the famous Susianella (a Renaissance revival sausage made with pork offal) to knife-cut salami, wild-fennel-scented porchetta, and an extraordinary artisan mortadella studded with Tuscia hazelnut halves.

Meanwhile, the ideal detour to sample and stock up on top-tier extra virgin olive oil is Azienda Agricola I&P (Ione Zobbi) Monocultivar Oils — Frantoio and Oleificio Caninese. Joining one of their guided tastings offers a masterclass for the palate, where olive oil achieves the structural complexity of fine wines. In the Canino countryside, the estate envisioned by Paolo Borzatta marks a sensory revolution for Tuscia's green gold, moving beyond simple seasoning into Grand Cru territory. The star is the ancient Caninese cultivar, presented across distinct micro-terroirs such as the renowned Musignano and Capo Terzo crus. In the state-of-the-art mill, extraction transforms the region's signature bitterness and pepperiness into elegant notes of wild artichoke, freshly cut grass, and green almond.

Under the stars: avant-garde tapas, contemporary fires, and late-night mixology

As evening sets over Viterbo's narrow streets, modern dining takes center stage at LAB Restaurant & Drink in Piazza Giuseppe Verdi. Set in a contemporary, metropolitan space, LAB fuses local culinary identity with international techniques. The menu delivers concentrated flavor in every bite, from steamed bao filled with local pork to tuna tacos, pecorino-and-mint gnocchetti, and expert wood-fire grilling.

Viterbo's nightlife reaches its natural finale at the LAB bar, one of the province's most exciting spots for mixology. The cocktail menu pairs a curated selection of imported spirits with signature drinks crafted using house-made infusions, syrups, and reductions. The bartenders guide guests through a tailored experience, closing the Tuscia itinerary with an elegant, bold, and cosmopolitan sip.