Florence Yields to the Myth: Relais Le Jardin Hosts Bobo Cerea Amid 19th-Century Elegance and Legendary Dishes

After even a brief search across Google and among Florentine gourmands, one can confidently assert that the Cerea brothers of three-Michelin-starred Da Vittorio had never before hosted a full dinner in Florence. Setting aside single-dish presentations during award ceremonies at Palazzo Vecchio, their official debut—and that of many Florentine guests in attendance—materialized at the Hotel Regency in the Tuscan capital. For one night, the mastery of Brusaporto cuisine merged with the fervent enthusiasm of resident chef Claudio Lopopolo.

"The idea behind this dinner," explains Chef Lopopolo, "stems from our desire to create a memorable event in Florence by hosting and collaborating with Bobo Cerea, one of the most celebrated chefs nationally and internationally. We wanted to offer our guests an unforgettable evening—one that, we can already reveal, will not be the last."

A Historic Setting

The stage for the event was the historic area surrounding Piazza D’Azeglio, which, during Florence’s six years as the capital of Italy (1865–1871), saw the rise of elegant townhouses built for state officials. Standing out among them are two neo-15th-century villas that together form the Hotel Regency. With its Liberty-style stained glass, wooden boiserie, and ornate ceiling decorations—such as the astrological symbols in the enchanting Sala Zodiaco at the Relais Le Jardin restaurant—the venue radiates timeless charm. A cozy inner garden framed by the glass doors of the Sala Veranda, where lush greenery contrasts against deep burgundy walls, along with thirty-one individually decorated rooms, complete the refined 19th-century aesthetic of this five-star boutique hotel.

Since 2022, the kitchen has been led by Claudio Lopopolo (originally from Bisceglie, Apulia), following a solid six-year tenure at Campo del Drago within the prestigious Rosewood Castiglion del Bosco estate in Montalcino. His background also includes professional stints in the UK and Australia, as well as seasons in Emilia-Romagna and Trentino. While his culinary expression is naturally influenced by the diverse cultures he has encountered, his foundation remains Apulian cuisine, presented at the table in a contemporary, refined key.

The evening alongside Cerea represented a unique collaborative milestone for Chef Lopopolo. Working alongside a three-Michelin-star brigade is a rare opportunity, making the event not only a celebration of haute cuisine but also an invaluable masterclass.

"Working with one of Italy’s most important chefs," Lopopolo shared at the end of the night, "taught me that true excellence comes from a balance of technique, creativity, and respect for ingredients. It reaffirmed how vital it is to never stop learning and always challenge oneself."

The Cerea family represents a absolute benchmark in global fine dining. The story of Da Vittorio began nearly sixty years ago in Bergamo with Vittorio Cerea and his wife, Bruna. Their three Michelin stars arrived across four decades: the first in 1978 (twelve years after opening), the second in 1996, and the third in 2010—five years after relocating to the sumptuous estate in Brusaporto, now part of Relais & Châteaux and Les Grandes Tables du Monde.

In addition to putting a small town of five thousand residents on the international gastronomic map, the late Vittorio Cerea, his wife Bruna, and their five children built a multifaceted hospitality empire defined by impeccable quality. The group holds a total of seven Michelin stars across its portfolio, including two-star outposts in St. Moritz and Shanghai, alongside a pastry shop, a boutique inn, pop-up concepts, and a renowned catering branch chosen for Italy's most prestigious events. Just days prior to this event, they unveiled their latest project: DaV by Da Vittorio Louis Vuitton at No. 2 Via Montenapoleone, an emblem of cosmopolitan luxury in Milan.

The Menu & Tasting Experience

An umami-rich, spiced Tuscan salami mousse was delicately enclosed inside a cannolo made of sweet, crispy peperone crusco.

Bobo Cerea welcomed guests with a crispy root vegetable bite, gently warmed by a earthy sweetness and a subtle nutty note. A savory Parmigiano foam draped the palate, crowned by the woody, musky perfume of black winter truffle.

Cerea’s signature foie gras "cherry" featured a buttery, rich center encased in a tart cherry glaze, balanced by bitter cocoa crumble and delicate flakes of Maldon sea salt.

Claudio Lopopolo countered with a crisp tartlet filled with herbal, sweet asparagus gel, paired with fermented peas and a bergamot salad that imparted citrusy freshness and bright acidity.

Raw Carloforte Red Tuna "Spaghetti" (Da Vittorio Classic): Fine strands of raw tuna mimicked pasta strands, boasting a rich, velvety texture. Plated over a robust bagna cauda infused with garlic and anchovies, the dish was balanced by toasted pistachio crumble and fresh lime zest. Served with the iconic instruction to "mix everything together," the dish delivered a vibrant explosion of flavor.

"Che 'cavolo' di risotto!" (Da Vittorio): A creamy risotto whipped with savory green cabbage, softened by a silky white cabbage foam. A powerful prawn bisque burst through the palate, accompanied by sweet, raw Sicilian red prawns, while a raw green cabbage crumble added a refreshing, crunchy bite.

Koji-Aged Bison Fillet (Relais Le Jardin): Paying homage to his adopted city while stepping away from convention, Lopopolo served a bison fillet. "I like working with less common meats," noted the chef. "I chose bison for its unique profile, and aging it with koji further enhances its tenderness and depth." The dish was accented by citrusy, resinous Voatsiperifery pepper, pickled radishes, and a crispy dust of Martina Franca capocollo, served alongside roasted leek and raspberry gel.

Sous-Vide Osmosis Pear (Relais Le Jardin): Infused with concentrated flavor through osmosis, served alongside pecorino ice cream, hazelnut biscuit, and toasted hazelnut crumble for texture.

Seasonal Colomba & Tableside Cannoncini (Da Vittorio): Given the season, Chef Bobo presented his classic artisanal Colomba cake, light and fragrant with vanilla and orange zest. This was followed by one of Brusaporto’s most convivial traditions: puff pastry cannoncini filled with custard cream live at the table, ensuring pristine crispness and an engaging moment of table-side theatricality.

Appletini Sphere (Relais Le Jardin): A playful digestif bite inspired by the Apple Martini, encapsulating vodka and apple juice inside a dual shell of white and dark chocolate, designed to pop in a single bite.

The Grand Finale

The true coup de théâtre arrived at the very end. Though subtly teased on the menu as "A tasty grand finale by Chef Cerea," guests immediately recognized the legendary Paccheri alla Vittorio. Born from a trip to Disneyland for Bruna and Vittorio's 25th wedding anniversary, the sauce features a precise blend of three tomato varieties: San Marzano, Pachino datterini, and Cuore di Bue. Emulsified live in the dining room with butter and 22-month Parmigiano Reggiano like a risotto, the sauce is passed through a chinoise for ultimate silky precision, creating a theatrical and unforgettable conclusion to the evening.